I was visiting a friend of mine who is manager of a restaurant when a commercial of a famous brand of wines from Rioja entered and he tried to sell their wines to my friend, then my friend said him, " the problem of your wine is that every year is the same, no changes ... I don’t know how you make the wine that every year is the same?" After that moment, he told me that when he receive wines that tastes the same every year, he don’t like it at all, and in fact this is true he was not mislead, each year the wine must be different. Some years, there is drought and the vineyard defends it self by consuming its own acids, so the wines are less structured with less freshness. Other years, it rains a lot and even if you remove some grapes in green to avoid a large production, the normal is that this production will be higher, but then the color suffers, it will not be as dark as usual, and probably it will be lighter, even if the winemaker does a good job in the cellar, it is normal that every year the actual wine has some differences, even if we want to keep a line of work to get an optimum quality.
These last years, due to the fashions that come from the "gurus " of wine , have become fashionable the wines with a very high level of alcohol and very dense, without freshness and elegance, and lossing the finesse we all want to find in a good wine, what happened? Why suddenly there are so many powerful wines that also evolve as fast losing their freshness and finesse ? There is no doubt that the answer we have to find in fashion, in some cases coming from determinate famous Americans prescribers who somehow has imposed its criteria.
As you know, wine making begins in the field, and that's where you should start an honest and natural work, then it is important do not abuse of fertilizer rich in potash, which increases the sugar content in the plant, as this will increase in a higher alcohol content, but also goes against the acidity (measured by pH, more acidity then the PH decreases) which is what makes wines survive over time and provides them with finesse. It is also important not to macerate a lot the wines with the skins which makes the wines are very dark and dense but also more stringent.
In Camino Soria we conducted a maceration of the skins until extraction that seems most suitable for the type of wine you can make each year, so we try to offer unique wines, each one with the advantages coming from the climatic characteristics of that particular year. Some of themhave more intense aromas and fruit flavors in the mouth, as it was in 2009, and other years there are more finesse and elegance as 2011 , and that point of freshness that you should not miss a good wine. You will not find our wine always the same every year, as happened with that seller .... a red wine should not be like a sherry , which every year is as homogeneous but must be faithful to its origins and characteristics , there it is precisely the grace of each wine.